How to Propagate a Money Tree: Water & Soil Methods Step by Step

Follow step-by-step instructions for both water propagation and soil propagation, and give your Money Tree cutting the best chance at strong roots.

Two proven methods will grow new Money Tree plants from stem cuttings: water propagation, which lets you watch roots develop in real time, and soil propagation, which skips the intermediate water stage. Both work well — choose the one that fits how you like to garden.

Step-by-Step Propagation Methods #

Water Propagation #

Water propagation lets you watch root development in real time, which makes it easier to know exactly when your cutting is ready to transfer to soil. It requires more ongoing maintenance than soil propagation but gives you visible feedback throughout the process.

1. Take your cutting. Using your sterilized shears, cut a 4–6 inch stem just below a node at a 45-degree angle. Work cleanly and quickly — the less time the cut end is exposed to open air before going into water, the better.
2. Remove lower leaves. Strip off all leaves from the bottom half of the cutting, leaving only the top one or two sets of leaves intact. Submerged leaves will rot in water and introduce bacteria that can kill the cutting before roots form.
3. Optional: apply rooting hormone. Dip the cut end briefly into rooting hormone gel or powder before placing it in water. While not strictly required for water propagation, it speeds up root initiation noticeably, especially for Money Trees which root more slowly than many houseplants.
4. Place in clean water. Set the cutting in a clean glass jar filled with room-temperature water, ensuring the bottom node is submerged but the remaining leaves stay above the waterline. Place the jar in a warm spot with bright indirect light — avoid direct sun, which will heat the water and encourage algae.
5. Change the water every 3–5 days. Replace the water with fresh, room-temperature water every three to five days. Stale water becomes oxygen-depleted and bacteria-rich, which causes stem rot. If the water turns cloudy sooner, change it immediately. Rinse the jar as well to prevent algae buildup.
6. Wait for roots to develop. Roots typically emerge within 4–8 weeks under good conditions. Be patient — Money Trees root more slowly than many popular houseplants. You’re looking for roots that are at least 1–2 inches long before transferring to soil. Transferring too early (roots under half an inch) leads to high failure rates in soil.
7. Transfer to soil. Once roots reach 1–2 inches, prepare a small pot with your well-draining potting mix, moisten it thoroughly, and make a hole with a pencil or chopstick. Set the rooted cutting in gently so the roots aren’t bent or compressed, then firm the soil around the stem. Water lightly and move to your care routine.

Soil Propagation #

Soil propagation skips the intermediate water stage and encourages roots to develop directly into their permanent growing medium. The transition to soil life is smoother, but you can’t see what’s happening below the surface — you’ll need to rely on indirect signs of success like new leaf growth and gentle tug resistance.

1. Prepare your potting mix. Mix standard potting soil and perlite in a 50/50 ratio. Moisten the mix before planting — it should feel like a wrung-out sponge, damp throughout but not dripping when squeezed. Fill your small pot to within half an inch of the rim and make a planting hole in the center with a pencil or chopstick.
2. Take and prepare your cutting. Cut your 4–6 inch stem just below a node, strip the lower leaves cleanly, and allow the cut end to sit in open air for 30–60 minutes. This brief callusing period slightly dries the cut surface, reducing the chance of immediate rot when it contacts moist soil.
3. Dip in rooting hormone. Apply rooting hormone powder or gel to the bottom inch of the cutting, covering the cut end and the first node completely. Tap off any excess powder — too thick a coating can actually inhibit rooting. For gel, apply a thin, even coat.
4. Plant the cutting. Insert the cutting into the pre-made hole in the moist potting mix, pushing it in deep enough that at least one node is buried below the surface. Firm the soil gently around the stem so it stands upright without support. Do not compact the soil heavily — the roots need aerated pathways to grow.
5. Create a humidity dome. Cover the pot loosely with a clear plastic bag, a cut plastic bottle, or a purpose-made humidity dome. This traps moisture and raises humidity around the cutting, preventing it from wilting before roots can sustain it with water uptake. Leave a small gap for minimal airflow to prevent fungal buildup.
6. Place in warm, indirect light. Set the pot in a warm location (65–80°F / 18–27°C) with bright indirect light. Avoid direct sun under the plastic dome — temperatures inside can spike rapidly and cook the cutting. Bottom heat from a seedling heat mat set to 70–75°F can meaningfully accelerate root development.
7. Monitor moisture every few days. Check the soil every two to three days by pressing a finger to the surface. The mix should stay consistently moist but never waterlogged. If condensation inside the dome becomes heavy, open it briefly to ventilate. Remove the dome entirely for 30 minutes every few days to prevent fungal disease.
8. Confirm rooting after 4–8 weeks. After four weeks, gently tug the base of the cutting with two fingers. Resistance means roots are anchoring into the soil — your propagation has succeeded. New leaf growth is the most reliable indicator of a rooted, actively growing plant. Once confirmed, gradually remove the humidity dome over one week before exposing the plant to normal household conditions.